Palladium – A White Metal of Choice
With major designers adopting palladium at an increasing rate, it has become a favored white metal for the global jewelry industry.

By Cynthia Unninayar, Editor-in-Chief

Palladium plays an integral role in many applications, primarily electronics, catalytic converters, fuel cells, oil refining, and dentistry, but its use in jewelry is rather “new.” Well, “new” is not quite accurate since this rare white metal was used to make jewelry during the 1940s when platinum was drafted for military use. But palladium is “new” in the sense that it has recently enjoyed a signifi cant resurgence with both bridal and fashion designers.

Part of this revival is due to the efforts of the Palladium Alliance International (luxurypalladium.com), a marketing organization closely aligned with the Stillwater Mining Company. Located in southern Montana, Stillwater is the major producer of palladium in the United States (along with platinum and other metals). The mine’s CEO, Frank McAllister, is enthusiastic about the metal’s rising use in jewelry. “People are captivated by its rarity, luxurious whiteness, and intense brightness. Palladium is just as rare as platinum, and it is a bright, white metal whose density is just right for jewelry.”

McAllister’s enthusiasm has been contagious. Among the noted designers to have adopted this new metal is Scott Kay, who has become a vigorous proponent of palladium. “Palladium is changing the jewelry industry as we know it. It is a naturally white precious metal, with properties that make it an obvious choice for jewelry. It is going to explode into our industry unlike anything we have ever seen.” When asked about platinum for which he is so well known, Kay responds, “My fi rst love will always be platinum, but palladium is making a stand. It is not a ‘poor man’s platinum.’ Palladium provides a stunning backdrop for diamonds and precious stones. It is a jeweler’s dream, a consumer’s opportunity, and a pure, natural hidden treasure.”

Tom McLaughlin, co-owner of Lennon’s Jewelers of Clay, New York, agrees. “Th rough my custom designing and fabrication, I found that palladium is an extremely easy metal to work with, and has many advantages, including cost. It’s naturally white, hypoallergenic, very malleable, and responds well to polishing. Prong stress and breakage is virtually eliminated. Palladium is staking out its own claim in the industry.”

PALLADIUM IN BRIDAL

The bridal sector was the first to embrace palladium in large numbers. Frederick Goldman offers palladium options in lines of its ArtCarved Collections as well as in its Diana Classic lines (artcarvedbridal.com, fgoldman.com). Lieberfarb (lieberfarb.com) promotes palladium rings in its advertising and on its website, asserting that the metal’s naturally lustrous white finish lends itself well to engagement rings and bands.
Bruce Pucciarello, owner of Novell Design Studio (novelldesignstudio.com), advocates that palladium is about choice, and his brand offers customers a pamphlet showing comparisons among the main metals used in bridal. “Palladium makes sense. It is also very useful in applications where platinum might be too heavy to be practical. A big plus is that palladium satisfi es customers who are upset when their white gold rings turn pale yellow, making it a natural choice for bridal products.” Novell has also introduced palladium into its fashion brand, Rose Veltri.

Michael Bondanza, well known for platinum bridal sets, has also introduced palladium into the brand’s lineup. “We off er palladium as an option in our bridal line, however, we use a platinum head or prongs on the palladium rings,” explains Geri Bondanza. “We have been successful with the mix. Many consumers want that clean bold metal ring, and palladium allows us to deliver it at a price they are comfortable with.” In its fashion line, the brand intends to offer palladium with black onyx and black jade.

“Due to the increasing popularity of palladium, Martin Flyer has begun to make more of its sample line available in palladium,” says Joshua Kaufman, the brand’s designer. “Benefi ts include palladium’s lower prices than platinum and gold and the fact that palladium, as a purely white metal, retains color better than white gold. As the demand continues to grow for palladium, Martin Flyer will continue to manufacture palladium jewelry to satisfy the needs of its customers.”

Among other noted bridal designers and brands off ering palladium options in their collections are Simon G., Wright & Lato, Christian Bauer, Christopher Designs, Michael Beaudry, Verragio, COGE, and Barry Kronen (who also off ers palladium in the brand’s fashion line). The list continues to grow.

CHARACTERISTICS

As a member of the platinum group metals (PGMs), palladium shares many of the same attributes as platinum. It is rare, hypoallergenic, naturally lustrous white, and durable. In jewelry, it is generally used in a 950 alloy. A few differences, however, do exist between the two metals. Palladium is whiter, and it is 12.6 percent harder, making it extremely wearable. It is also around 40 percent less dense than platinum, allowing for larger volumes for the same weight. Th is makes it ideal for earrings, necklaces, and other fashion pieces where platinum would be too heavy.

Another notable diff erence between the two metals is cost. At press time, platinum was hovering around $2000 an ounce while palladium was near $450, a fact not unnoticed by jewelers who are feeling the eff ects of the rise in gold and platinum prices. But, according to Scott Kay, even if prices were the same, “the lighter weight of palladium will always give it a cost advantage.”

TIMELY WHITE LUXURY

Th e jewelry industry is not alone in taking a good look at palladium. A number of watch companies have also adopted the white metal as an integral part of their timepiece collections. Among them are some of the biggest names in prestige watchmaking. Brands such as Ulysse Nardin (ulysse-nardin.com), Parmigiani Fleurier (parmigiani.com), Mauboussin (mauboussin.com), and Cartier (cartier.com) are all now making watches in palladium. Philip Stein Teslar (philipstein. com) has indicated that it will also launch a palladium line this year.

On a different note, Italian fashion brand, Bulgari (bulgari.com), has selected palladium to be used in decorations for its handbags.

PALLADIUM ALLIANCE INTERNATIONAL

To foster understanding of the “new” palladium, the nonprofit Palladium Alliance International (PAI) was formed in 2006. Based in Billings, Montana with a branch office in Shanghai (China is the world’s largest manufacturer of palladium jewelry), the PAI “focuses on branding and marketing strategies that will promote palladium as a luxurious and precious metal,” explains PAI chairman, John Stark.“We have programs designed to educate salespeople about palladium and why it is a great metal to use in jewelry.” Th e PAI also provides technical articles dealing with production issues. “Palladium isn’t an alternative to platinum or to white gold,” insists Stark. “Th e metal stands on its own unique merits, and is a good choice in the fine jewelry market.”(luxurypalladium.com)